Shop Blog
All the latest news and views straight from the shop floor.
It’s never too early to start preparing for the flea season, so here are our top tips on how you can keep the little buggers at bay.
1. Keep it Clean: Hoover rugs, furniture, curtains, dog beds, and anything else you can think of at least once a week. Use a “shake and vac” type flea protector powder once a month (even in the winter), and make sure to dispose of the hoover bag promptly. Oh and don’t forget to Hoover the car or anywhere else your pet has been.
2. Wash Dog/Cat Bedding: Wash your pet’s bedding at least once a week on the hottest temperature approved by the manufacturer (check the tag for recommendations). Wash out all crates with an appropriate disinfectant.
3. Tidy Up Your Garden: Sweep up dead leaves/debris and treat your patio/steps with an appropriate cleaner.
4. Use a Preventive “Spot On” During the Height of the Season: Johnson’s do a range of size appropriate preventive treatments which keep dogs and cats flea free for up to three months. Make sure your dog or cat does not currently have fleas as preventative treatments will not kill them. Also make sure that you do not use cat treatments on dogs or vice versa.
5. Avoid Walking in Popular Areas with Long Grass: Fleas, and their even uglier friend the tick, love to hang out in long grass so try to avoid. Lots of dogs in a concentrated area make it more likely that fleas will follow, so try a few new walks off the beaten path.
6. Try a Herbal Supplement: Make sure it’s the right one! Garlic tablets have NEVER been proven to prevent flea infestations. The only thing they will do is make your dog stink. Garlic, if taken in large doses can actually harm your pet, so if you’re looking for a natural remedy, try Billy No Mates. Billy contains no garlic, but does have lots of other lovely herbs that seem to repel fleas and ticks. Although there is no scientific evidence to support its effectiveness, I use it with my boys as it won’t do them any harm and it may even do them some good. You must start Billy No Mates now as it takes 4-6 weeks for the herbs to have the proper effect.
7. Have Fleas Now? First Stop the Vets: These tips are all well and good if you don’t currently have fleas, but if you do, you must first get rid. This will mean a trip to the vet for some proper flea killing spot ons. You must also treat your house and your car or your pet will simply become re-infected once the spot on wears off.
Following these tips won’t guarantee that your home stays flea free of course, but they have worked for us. Please note that even when putting these tips into practice, you must still treat for internal parasites and stay vigilant for signs of Lungworm.
Fellow dog owners, I feel your pain! Or should that read “I smell your pain”? Mud, rain, snow, puddles and mucky ponds all play their part creating that dreaded smell. Throw in a puppy who also likes to roll in you know what, and bingo! Welcome to Dog Pong Land - guaranteed to infest your house, your car and possibly even you.
But all is not completely lost, as most smells can be minimised by regular grooming, using the correct products, and not over doing it on the bathing front. Truth be told, some dogs do smell more than others, but did you know that not all smells are created equal? Fact is, some smells may be a sign that not all is right with your pet.
Time to See the Vet?
So you’ve washed, dried, sprayed, and groomed Fido to within an inch of his life, but a lingering scent still remains. Before you rush out and buy even more products, stop to think if there could be an underlying medical issue.
1. Breath: Dental problems are the first thing to check if you suspect it’s dog breath you’re smelling. Look for swollen gums, plaque, rotten teeth or unusual growths. If you don’t spot anything, bear in mind that other health conditions can produce odours in the mouth such as kidney failure, and diabetes.
2. Infected Ears: Ears infected with mites, or plagued by an infection are often red, mucky, warm to the touch, and smell. To high heaven.
3. Anal Glands/Sacs: Used to mark a dog’s territory (one bowl movement at a time!), impacted, or infected anal glands/sacs are one of the most common causes of smelly dog syndrome. If your dog has also been dragging his or her rear end along the floor, you may have found the culprit.
4. Atopy: Atopy is an inflammation of the skin and is primarily caused by seasonal allergies, or food allergies/ intolerances. This condition triggers an over production of sebum, which can give the coat an oily feel and a musty smell. Poor diet often lies at the root of this problem but age inappropriate diet is another, often overlooked, cause.
If you suspect that your dog’s smell might be caused by any of the above, please seek the advice of your veterinary surgeon. This is by no means a complete list, but if you’ve tried grooming your dog with quality products and the smell still won’t go away, it’s time to follow your nose …..straight down to the vet’s.
First posted January, 2010
Brr…Baby, it's cold outside! If you're anything like me, the second you get home you are reaching for your woolies and having a cuppa - but what about your pets?
Certain dog breeds are more affected by the cold than others, and older pets even more so. Rabbits, Guinea Pigs, and Aviary Birds are also feeling the cold, and don’t even talk about cats as many are simply refusing to go outside at all!
So here are a few of our top tips to keep them comfy.
Keep them indoors:
Bring Rabbit/Guinea Pig hutches inside. Move them to a garage or a shed or even better, purchase an indoor cage suitable for breed/number. If you can’t bring your Rabbit or Guinea Pigs indoors, PACK their hutches with lots of good quality dust extracted straw for insulation, and move the hutch away from draughts, wind, or falling snow. Clear away any snow that has accumulated on top of the hutch, and also check water bottles frequently for ice. You can buy hutch covers as well as insulated water bottles which will prevent this. Also check your fence for any gaps as foxes will be prowling about looking for food too.
Dogs should not be left outside in these conditions! No excuses whatsoever!
Cats should also be kept indoors so make sure you provide them with a litter tray and a good supply of suitable cat litter. Cats who are used to going outside don't really fancy crystal type litters, so stick to good old fashioned Fuller's Earth (which can double as grit for your path if you're really stuck).
Aviary Birds present more of a challenge, but try your best to provide some sort of suitable indoor cage. Even if it’s a bit on the small side, it's better for them to be somewhat cramped for a short period of time then suffer from the cold.
Protect them from the elements:
If your home is a little chilly, jackets and sweaters can keep dogs and cats warm inside the house. There are loads of fleecy dog/cat beds on the market, and you can also buy microwaveable heat pads as well as thermal heat reflecting blankets for older pets who may have difficultly generating their own body heat.
For outside use, it's better to choose a jacket that has a waterproof nylon outer covering with a warm fleecy lining rather than a fashionable “hoodie” or similar. Smaller dogs will also appreciate a jacket with a built in “belly guard” to keep their tum tums dry.
Make sure that whoever fits your dog for a coat does so properly, as an ill fitting coat is just as bad as none at all. If you feel you can’t bring your dog into the shop, measure your dog’s back from the base of his neck to the base of his tail to get a good fit.
A thin layer of Vaseline will also help protect your dog’s paws but don’t put on too much or she may pick up even more salt and grit from the road than repel. Booties are another option, but many dogs simply HATE them, and getting the right fit can often be a nightmare.
It goes without saying that you MUST keep a sensible head when embarking on a walk with your dog. If the weather is poor, and there is a high risk of frostbite, please stay indoors. Your dog won’t fall to pieces if he misses a walk, and it is better to be safe and warm at home than lost (or worse) out in the cold. If you are heading out, make sure someone knows where you are going and when you will be coming back. Keep a fully charged mobile phone with you and make sure it contains your vet’s contact details – including the practice’s emergency number.
As for Aviary Birds (if you can't bring them inside) insulate their box with lots of nest building material, and wrap the box with some old towels or fleecy blankets making sure you leave enough room for them to get in and out. Keep checking that ice and snow have not bent or twisted the aviary wire and make any repairs as soon as you spot them. Keep a close eye on water/food bowls and remove any seed that has been exposed to moisture and keep checking for ice in the water.
“Après Ski”:
When you get back from your walk, make sure you wash your dog’s feet in a bath of tepid (not hot!) water, and dry them accordingly. You may wish to work in a bit more Vaseline to keep them soft, but again don’t go mad as your dog will probably lick it off if you use too much. If your dog has picked up ice in his coat, use a warm towel to slowly work out the ice clumps. Never pull or chop out the ice as this can be quite painful – not to mention wreck his coat.
Please don’t give in to the temptation to give your dog hot drinks as this will do his tummy no favours at all. Simply make sure he has a warm, dry place to curl up that is away from draughts and close to his favorite humans!
Provide more food:
Feed your dog or cat a little more in the winter months, especially if you have been spending a lot of time outside. Don’t go crazy, as this is not the time to put weight on your pet, but a little extra kibble, or an additional .tbsp of wet food goes a long way to keep the internal furnace burning.
Some dogs may develop dry skin as moving from cold to hot environments can put more stress on already weather beaten skin. Adding a .tsp of vegetable oil to their dinner once a week may help or you can mix a .tsp of oily fish (such as sardines in sunflower oil NOT brine) with one of their daily meals. If the situation is getting out of control, you may wish to purchase a dry skin oil such as Yumega, or Vetzyme's Dry Skin Tablets - both of which are very effective in treating seasonal skin problems. Avoid over bathing your dog as this will dry his skin out even more. If you must, try a brush out shampoo which will get him smelling fresh and clean in no time.
Aviary Birds will be especially hungry but breaking up seed uses valuable energy so make it easier for them by providing easy to eat high energy foods such as already shelled sunflower seeds, and blocks of fat similar to wild bird treats. Put extra bowls in the aviary and keep them well topped up making sure to dust off any fallen snow as soon as possible to avoid the seed freezing or spoiling. Keep checking their water supply and break up any ice. A wine cork placed in the bowl can help keep the water from freezing, provided they don't see it as a toy and chuck it out!
Rabbits and Guinea Pigs would also appreciate a bit more food, but try to provide them with more roughage instead of pellets. Lots more hay or alfalfa grasses will give them plenty of extra energy and whatever isn't eaten can provide further insulation.
Still have questions?
Remember, we are here to help, so please ring if you have any questions about keeping your pet warm. If you feel your dog could use a bit of a break from a cold walk, please pop in and take advantage of our heated shop! Tea and coffee on tap for the owner, and a nice crunchy treat for the dog.
See – every cloud has a silver lining!
Take care, and keep warm – Claire
Congratulations on your new puppy! You are about to embark upon a fabulous journey, and no one can blame you for wanting to buy lots of shiny new things for the new arrival. The first few days with a puppy can be a bit stressful, so it does help to have all the supplies you need to hand.
Sadly, many puppy shopping lists are created by pet accessory companies (or indeed by pet shops!) and are designed to make you spend as much of your hard earned cash as possible.
This one is different. It’s designed to make sure that you get all the important things that you need while saving you money at the same time.
If you don’t live near our shop, please by all means print this list and take it with you wherever you decide to go – just don’t let a pushy salesperson make you buy more than you need!
Ready? Set? Let’s buy some toys!
The top toys we recommend to every new puppy person are:
- A Kong (for crate time, and “brain training” time),
- A Nylabone (for safe chewing and general play)
- One soft toy (for cuddles)
- One “Ragger” rope toy or similar (for chewing, or learning to retrieve)
Four toys might sound a bit mean, but by giving your puppy lots of things, you are actually making it harder for him to distinguish what items you want him to play with (YAH KONG!) and those you don’t (YAH REMOTE CONTROL!). You also don’t know what your puppy would “like” to play with yet, so by giving him just a few things you will get to know his likes and dislikes much quicker than by bombarding him with stuff he couldn’t care less about.
For example, my James HATES Nylabones with a passion– he really doesn’t see the point. But loves his Kong, so if I have to leave him I give him his Kong as I know that will keep him busy. If I left him with a Nylabone, then chances are it would be a case of “bye bye Mr. Sofa”.
A few other things to consider when selecting toys.
- Make sure they are the right shape and size for your puppy, with the rule of thumb being if you think it’s too big, it’s probably the right size (within reason!).
- Check that all the stitching is secure and won’t easily come away. There are literally hundreds of types of toys out there, and all are of varying quality. Some of the cheaper rope toys may unravel too quickly, or some types of plastic toys may shred and pose choking hazards. Keep your wits about you, and watch puppy like a hawk with any new toy.
- If at all possible, try and avoid squeaky toys as these can encourage puppy to mouth or bite down on objects too hard, making it more difficult to “untrain” this behaviour if directed at humans.
Puppies need toys, but they don’t need their own toy box, nor should toys be used in place of one on one attention. Remember, the best thing you can give your dog is your time.
The recent spell of warm weather has encouraged our local Adder population to emerge from their winter hiding places.
The only venomous snake in the UK, the Common European Adder (Vipera berus) is not considered to be a particularly dangerous snake to people, but dogs are relatively frequent victims of Adder bites due to their nature of exploring undergrowth and their general inquisitiveness.
Adder bites often occur when a dog is out on a walk and exploring areas where snakes are basking in the sun. This makes them likely to disturb the snakes, either accidentally or due to their investigative actions. Dogs are frequently bitten on the face and limbs but bites can occur on any part of the body.
If your pet is bitten by an adder (or you suspect that it may have been) you should seek prompt veterinary attention. Do not attempt to suck out the venom or apply a tourniquet as these procedures are ineffective and may even cause further harm to your pet. Inform you vet that you suspect it may be an Adder bite as not all veterinary surgeries keep anti-venom in stock and you may be directed to go to a different surgery.
Please also remember, that the Adder is a protected species under The Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981 (as amended), and as such it is against the law to disturb or harm the Adder in any way.
Already we have heard of one dog rushed to the vets after a bite, so keep your eyes peeled for this doggie hazard.
